60 Degree V6 Carb and SFI Engine Conversion FAQ's for British Automobiles

Conversion FAQ's

The GM 60° V6 has been chosen for its technology, power, compact design, availability of stock parts, availability of gearboxes choices and all ancillaries being built for rear wheel drive with optional aftermarket components. Compared to any other driveline, there is no easier installation with the available power on tap. A lot of people ask if we build kits for other drivelines because they can "find a motor for less" or "have one sitting around". First item that needs to be addressed is where pricing adds up- Any motor can be installed into just about anything, however, the price is in the ancillaries, not a rebuildable long block. When adding the price of a transmission, custom bell housing and other items to transfer their would-be "cheap" motor into a car, they have a tendency to cost more Or at least quadruple their time spent on a project fabricating special components and machine work that adds time and added material costs. The GM sixty degree V6 is still one of the best and most diverse motors built to this day.

-FAQ's-

Will the 4.3L (not 3.4L) and the 3.8L engines fit with this kit? The 3.8L and 4.3L engines are 90° engines that WILL NOT fit with this kit. To install those motors will require time spent altering the motor bay, steering column and directing the exhaust out the wheel wells. The late model port fuel injected Chevrolet S-10 4.3L V6 weighs substantially more then our 2.8/3.1/3.4L conversion and does not offer a significant improvement in base horse power. The 3.4L offers a stock 160 BHP and the 4.3L has 180 BHP with allot of additional labour and extra weight. Weight is an enemy of speed. The reciprocating mass inside the 4.3 V6, along with its stock flywheel is substantially heavier as well, which is not needed for a quick revving sports car motor as much as it helps pulling heavy loads in pickups.

Where can I get a donor engine? The V6 engine can be found in 1982-1995 Chevrolet Camaros and Firebirds, 1982-1993 Chevrolet S10, GMC S15 and Sonoma, 1985-1986 Jeeps, and a few other vehicles such as the 1990 Isuzu Trooper. They were widely used and can be purchased from almost any salvage yard. Rebuilt 3.2 and 3.4 and New GM 3.4 crate motors can also be purchased through BMC.

What style of cars do you sell the "bolt in" kit for? 1963 through 1980 MG B. This could be used in the MG C as well, but there may be some small issues that need to be worked out. We are also working on the later spitfires, but these cars require a bit of "sheet metal relieving" for proper placement into the vehicle.

Do you sell bolt in kits for others styles of cars? We can, but we need an example car and a willing volunteer to pay for the engineering time. We are in process of converting a 1975 Spitfire to the 1995 L32 3.4L SFI motor and have heavy considerations for other cars as well.

What do you sell in the basic conversion kit? The basic kit comes with: Headers, header gaskets, bolts, motor mounts, motor mount brackets, transmission cross member, and instructions to mount into the MGB           How long does it take to receive the kit? The kit takes about a week or less via UPS to most points in the Continental United States of America. The kits are shipped as soon as we received a money order or a cashier's check. Sometimes it may take two to three weeks if we don't have a kit in stock.

What modifications do I have to do to the engine bay of my MG B for the V6 to fit? No modifications are necessary on the Rubber Bumper MG B. On the Chrome Bumper MG B, the area next to the steering column has to be dressed to clear the header flange. On the tunnel next to the oil check hole a 2X2 area must be dressed a to clear the transmission, and the old motor mount towers cut off from the chassis. -A fairly simple set of alterations that can be done casually in an hours time. NO WELDING or Special tools required!   Does the sub frame need alteration to fit this kit? Not on MG Bs! Those alterations are only needed to fit V8's. These kits fit above your frame member with the stock oil pan.

 

How much weight difference does this make?

The GM 60 degree V6 and the 5 speed conversions are lighter then the MGB 1.8 liter Motor and MGB overdrive gearbox.

 

How much hp can I get from the V6?

HP is not as important as the torque that the V6 develops. The V6 2.8L is capable of producing 160 hp with 9:1 compression and a cam of split duration of 260 Intake and 270 Exhaust. And an Edelbrock manifold and a Holley 390 CFM, with the correct exhaust system. The torque is about 170 lb. All of this depends on how is assembled and tuned.

The stock 3.4L V6 replacement motor produces 160 BHP and 200 lbs torque with a stock 2 bbl carb in emissions legal trim. If you elect to install a better ignition system, better induction system and other items better then the stock systems for the early motors, these are quite capable of climbing beyond the respectable "emissions legal" 160/200 numbers of this stock setup.

A stock L32 3.4L SFI Camaro motor produces 160 BHP at 4600 RPM and 200 Lbs torque at 3600 RPM. These can produce 200++ BHP and even more Torque with small modifications.

We have heard of almost stock 2.8L V6 engines that have not been rebuilt producing more then 130 BHP at the wheels.

What intake system can I use? Stock progressive variable venturi 2 bbl, aftermarket high rise 2 and 4 bbl manifold and carb, TBI (Throttle Body), Built aftermarket TBI, MPFI (MultiPort Fuel Injection), SFI (Sequential Port Fuel Injection) SFI also comes with DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) and more! The only system that I recommend against in cars such as the MG B is the MPFI system of the 1985-1992 Camaro. Its manifold is about one inch too high and would require a hood scoop on all MG B conversions and some others as well. The overall system, other then this high rising manifold is just fine for the conversion.   What ignition systems are available? Depending on which system you have. There are a lot of aftermarket systems that are ready to bolt onto the 60 degree V6. Weather the mechanical advance distributor or the DIS system; there are many upgrades on the market for these.   What gearbox, bellhousing, flywheel and clutch can you use? Easiest is the setup from the 1982-1995 Camaros. There are many interesting combination's, but I recommend the easy system. Please refer to our Parts list for pricing on the individual pieces. If you are building a system with mixed parts, I can order a proper clutch kit for you.   What do I use for a slave cylinder? Due to space constraints, a regular type slave cylinder is not used. A hydraulic Throw Out Bearing is used- also known as a HTOB. This bearing acts as the slave cylinder making the installation a lot easier.   What type of radiator should I use? The stock radiator works fine for the V6. Some modifications have to be done for the radiator to work properly. The inlet and outlet on the radiator have to be modified to the same size as the V6 uses. Extreme examples of the high output V6 motors might benefit from a different radiator, but we have run excellent condition stock units in cars with higher power.   What drive shaft do you have to use? Custom-built drive shafts cost $250 with parts and labor.   Do I have to change my rear axle? No, only if you are not happy with it. The stock MGB is 3.909 ratio, and quite a number of people continue to use this as an affordable way of doing a conversion. A rear end can also be changed later if you are not happy with it for only the price of doing the drive shaft again- a minimal cost to find your comfort level. We build custom differentials with any gear ratio desired as well as limited slip and disc brake setups for the ultimate machines.   How much does it cost to convert my MGB to a V6? The cost depends on the cost of the engine and transmission. With a new engine from GM, it could cost up to $7000.00 in parts. With a used engine, these average $4500.00 and your time. Some conversions have been done for $1,500.00 plus the kit, but this is the Rare exception, not the rule . These prices do not include labour and are current as of this writing.

 

Who does the conversion if I don't want to?

We do. Shipping across Country runs about $700 for a one-way trip for most shippers from door to door. I would feel comfortable driving it home anywhere in the Country when it is complete if you do not want to pick it up for a similar amount.

 

However, if you have a shop that you are very comfortable with that you feel can accomplish this non-standard work, a shop that is competent in the replacement of motors to a non-OEM manufacturer style should be able to do it. When using other shops for this style of work, it is best to get references on projects similar in nature to this one to see the end product.

 

What would it cost for BMC to do this?

We have charged up to 135 hours to do a unique conversion with SFI and a number of what was at the time "new" items.

Generally, our installation time will be a minimum of 40 hours of shop time on a carbureted version and more on a version with additional items such as SFI, air conditioning or other add ons. This is with all parts to be assembled on a vehicle that drives in as a 1.8L and out as a V6 conversion or "turn key" driveline install.

 

What is your Standard price for a conversion?

That's a loaded question if I ever saw one!!! The variables are so great, and the prices are as well. Lets stick with a basic 3.4L SFI conversion- the one popularized here at BMC:

Stock motor- priced as direct from the salvage yard- aprox $350 to $800, a manual gearbox- $400 to $900, depending on options and mileage. The basic installation kit runs $600 plus shipping, the rest of the parts (the parts that make up the real cost of ANY conversion!!!) run around $3000. The shop Labour costs and shop supplies cost $2500 and taxes for MN residence costs on the parts- Generally around $7,000 for a car with 175 BHP and 210 Torque. Add for extra items such as roller rockers, performance chips, big bore throttle bodies, aluminium flywheels, aftermarket ignition systems, programmable ECU's, Limited slip custom built differentials and so on.... Price goes up, but ET's go way down! Generally, this nominal price for the L32 is $7,000 installed. Double your Torque, Triple your fun!

Do you build complete drivelines that are ready for the owner to install and simply plug into my engine bay?

Yes, please contact us for details and it can be built for you as an assembled unit shipped to you with your specifications. The majority of time is spent deciding on custom parts- built to YOUR specifications and assembling the unit. We also have more choices in parts then you might expect! Complete drivelines with kits will usually run over $4,000.00 in parts with a used motor, wiring harness built, fuel pump and other ancillaries. Depending on how much assembly you wish to do yourself, will vary on how many hours in labour will be billed on top of this.

 

You sell just bits and piece or the V6 conversion kit without anything else, Don't you?

Yes. And we will continue to do so as long as people are not using us for information only. This is a full time business and not a share-ware site. Since the beginning, we have tried to offer a good amount of information to let people understand the ease of the conversion when info is released. Although this can, quite more often then not, allow 99% of people to do these outside of the shop (read- on their own or competing shops to do the work) and does not give financial gain to our pocketbook, I am into the cars as much as the business, but we still need to eat and this website and my phone tech time need to be paid for by something.

 

Do you have any solutions for the backwards belt setup on the 1993-1995 Camaro L32 3.4L V6?

Yes. One of the first items we went through was to build a simple solution for these motors that allows the front crank sensor and balancer to stay and the system to be used in all MG B and plenty of other conversions. It includes a belt, pulley and spacer kit. If you are not comfortable installing it, we will install it in house, shape the bracket to fit the car and media blast the products with fresh glass beads for an as new appearance.

 

What about wiring harnesses?

The MGB harness can be modified without any problem for carburetion by most DIY people. The TBI, MPFI and SFI harnesses should be left to those that are willing to spend allot of time learning the system, understanding what needs to be reconnected and what can be thrown away. TBI system harnesses can be purchased new, the SFI system needs to have the wiring harness sent to BMC British Auto for alteration for aftermarket use. We modify to fit a clean mock up motor for direct install into your car without worries or problems that occur in other shop by people who do it on the cheap. Our harnesses are rebuilt for proper function and built according to our standards for use in these cars. Any car built before 1968 will need to change to negative ground, as modern alternators and Powertrain Control Modules require negative Earth.

Air Conditioning! I need Air Conditioning!

Fine, as long as you put it that way, I will let you know that I have had enough people ask about it that I am planning on building a bracket and a pulley system to add to our current setup for the 3.4L SFI system. This will mount the air conditioning compressor at this point and if you currently run a BMC style belt setup, we are trying to fit it to this with only the change of the belt to a longer unit. If you are interested in this system, This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

I found that the later GM FWD cars used Aluminum heads in their conversion and some say its better. Why is there a controversy over which heads are better?

Everybody seems to have their own opinion. Goods and bads come from everything, including GM's Aluminum units. I am not saying these are bad units, but I am saying there is more hype to these then you might initially have considered. Positive- better emissions from port flows and a roller cam. GM designed these with more power from the factory. My estimates show about 10 pounds per head weight savings- I do not have exact figures on year for year units, and will not claim such.

Negatives- Aluminum dissipates heat, good right? Heat is energy. Energy is what drives the piston down that turns the crank that turns the driveline that goes out to the road. In order to get the same power output from an exact style head (apples to apples), you MUST build a higher compression ratio to keep the energy where it belongs- pushing the pistons downwards. Not so good. They have a more even port flow to begin with, but the iron heads can be ported out real well to develop more power if you are doing a complete head removal.

Aluminum headed motors will not accept anything but Fuel injection since there is no carbureted manifolds built for these and the overall conversion usually costs more.

For most conversions, the 20 pounds of weight saved is not worth it for the difference between the two V6 motors. Both can have an equal amount of power pulled out of the flywheel.

The argument has been stated to me that the latest 3.4L Iron head motor with SFI only had 160 BHP and 200 Tq and the FWD 3.4L unit produced 185 and 210, so isn't this proof enough that the cast iron head cannot produce as much?

Sure! If you do not know history, and generally what you are talking about. Lets make some comparisons- the cast iron head was used in the Camaro's, S10, S15, Sonoma, Trooper, Cherokee and other heavy duty vehicles in rear drive configuration. The Aluminum heads were used in the Minivans, and front wheel drive cars. The pickups that used these motors were to be economical vehicles with carburetor and TBI, not aiming for power, but reliability and hard use, even pulling trailers, such as I do with a 3.4L SFI Converted S10! The Camaro's with the V6 2.8, 3.1 and 3.4L V6 had the big brother engine installed in them- the 305 and 350 CI V8. Now who at GM in their right mind would give the full programming capability to a V6, when it would cut into their V8 sales? If this was not the case and the aluminum heads are so much better, then they could have easily installed the aluminum heads that are supposed to, by themselves give the added BHP and tq. The added power, combined with the removal of 100 to 200 pound of weight difference would have set these cars almost along side of the V8 powered monsters.... The American public WANTS to know that the V8 will eat any V6 that comes up to it. A few K&N additions, chips, and regearing will throw a V6 out in front of that V8. More proof?? What about the fact that GM's gearing of All V6 motors from beginning to end was wide spacing and all V8's no matter what, was close ratio? The 3.4L and 3.8L V6 motors were both as powerful as the early 1980's T5 gearboxed' V8 cars!

Going back to the FWD units, most vehicles that used the FWD motor had the 3.4L as the only motor. GM did not need to prove any other motor faster or better, and when they did, they did it by lowering the power by small programming differences in the FWD cars too!

Don't believe the factory numbers. All those who have worked on both the Cast aluminum motors as well as the Cast iron head motors can tell you that the slightest work on any GM 60 degree V6 will push the power up very quick beyond those of GM's stock figures.

A special note: I am making comparisons between the two equal but different units. The aluminum head motors are a good unit as well, but must point these items out to all 'newbies' in the world of conversions! I would rather push a 3.4L GM V6 powered MG (rare occurrence) then drive a 3.5L BOP/R V8 (that continually overheats)!

OK, that was a long answer!

 

What am I getting when I purchase parts through BMC British Automobile?

-We supply parts with instructions and technical support when purchased through BMC.

We supply the best products that we have tested on our own vehicles or vehicles being tested by the shop and proven to work best for the given circumstance. For example, a fuel pump will not come with its simple factory instructions, but instead more specifics on how and where to mount it as well as best applications.

 

Can I get my conversion parts for less?

We sell quality parts at good prices at minimal mark up. We have found that the cheap parts cost less and give more problems or do not last as long. When ordering through BMC British Auto, you are ordering from one source that has all, or at least most of your needs, along with lower shipping costs, quality parts that work properly, and you get to work with thee experts who will support you by telephone and email! The person who looks around to save money usually ends up in hot water, has spent an extra 6 weeks in "finding and fabricating" instead of driving and usually ends up saving less then 5% when shipping is figured in!  And of course we live and breathe these conversions so we know what works, what doesn't and have dreamed up of solutions for the next unique conversion!

 

"The bitterness of inferior quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."

I want to make you as a client to come back to get more bang for your buck, not someone who has to come back because something went BANG!

 

Specialty:

This is a British Automobile shop and thus we do not accept vehicles from American, German, Swedish, Italian, or Japanese manufacturers; It’s British cars or nothing! We specialize in British vehicles that most shops are not equipped for in literature, materials, tooling, parts sources and the general will to do the Classic British Imports. We perform standard English repairs, upgrades, partial and complete restorations, as well as English only car to non-British conversions. Products built with your input- we build and stock products according to client's feedback! To know more on these policies, please read the BUSINESS INFORMATION on this website.

Will this conversion fit my <fill in the blank> ? Triumph, Sunbeam, Big Healey, Spridget, etc, etc.

Some of these vehicles have very good possibilities to fit this driveline. There are dimensions that will need to be looked at and varying points on the structure of the vehicle to take into consideration. We have several transmissions to choose from with several places that the shifter comes out of the transmission in order to fill these drivelines into multiple styles of vehicles. The motor mounting kits will vary on usability, but the headers seem to be a good point to base most conversions off of and work with multiple styles of bodies with minimal variations. We have measured the motor and shift points and found for vehicles such as TR7 and Sunbeam Alpines would be a fairly simple conversion. And yes, people have placed these in Spridgets before. Big Healey...? Well, it is smaller, lighter and would give the car a better takeoff speed then the original motor. This driveline with transmission weighs in at less then the MG B driveline...And the straight 6 cylinder of the big Healey weighs in at a very overweight 700 Lbs.

We are even placing one of these drivelines in a Triumph Spitfire!